You can't help but feel that you're surrounded by the Unseen in Bali.
To say that the Balinese are spiritual is an understatement. Because religion is so deeply entrenched in their psyche and way of life that it is almost a physical extension of the island itself. Gods reside in the mountains, demons in the sea. A curious Shiva-Buddha-Animist type Hinduism pervades every nook and cranny of Bali's fertile earth and continues towards the powdery sands of its surf-lashed beaches.
Womenfolk spend their waking hours weaving small leaf baskets on which colorful offerings of flowers are placed to appease both Good and Evil. Every village, with uncanny likeness, has 3 separate temples dedicated to Brahma the Creator, Vishnu the Preserver and Shiva the Destroyer. Big ceremonies held at the main coastal temples of Tanah Lot and Uluwatu typically attract the majority of the populace, serious devotees and camera-toting tourists alike.
Perhaps best of all, foreigners are not allowed access into the inner sanctum of these hallowed grounds. On one hand, we lose the experience of taking in the island's unique brand of Hinduism at its most intimate. But more importantly, the respect and privacy the Balinese accord to their gods adds to the almost romantic mysticism surrounding the religiosity of their lives. It is as if you are invited to partake of the meal, but Holy Communion is only reserved for the Believers.
After the Kuta and Jimbaran bombings of 2002 and 2005, its not hard to see that the Balinese are still fearfully tentative inside. The question of when the next explosion will occur is an unspoken yet very palpable, sinister proposition. The island now views transient local migrants from other parts of the archipelago as more of a security risk than the quintessential Aussie beachbum who's here to ride-out a couple of Rip Tides. Waging an inner war, as it were.
The Balinese are engaged in either of two broad professions, Tourism or Farming. And in both, the island is blessed with world-class surf beaches and fertile volcanic land. Cultural inheritance from the old Majapahit empire also adds to the allure, with the relatively recent emergence of an artistic Ubud-style capturing the imagination of arty-farty types the world over.
Golden sand, verdant rice terraces, cultural preservation and a unique Belief with colorful attendant ceremonies. Coupled with a People, who, behind a facade of genuine friendliness, are fiercely mindful of their identity.
Few other islands have got the mix right.
Labels: Musings, Places